Feeling very Bo Derek!
Lifestyle
I have a friend who came to Bali with her husband a few years ago. They built a house and planned to retire in Bali in the near future. I don’t know about that. However, it sure is a paradise for vacation if you’re sick of modern civilization. It is refreshing to leave behind the cell phone, laptop, TV, and radio – just distractions in modern days. For the first time, I was truly alone – but not lonely. In our day-to-day life, we’re always surrounded by information and technology; and we’re probably terrified if we ever have to give it all up. Somehow, we forget about the days when we had fun and before the inventions of high-tech. In today’s world, everything has to be efficient because time is precious.
In Bali, nobody is in a hurry. Locals and tourists are both relaxed. When the shops close at six o’clock, everyone knows it’s time to go home. The locals sleep at 10 and they wake up at 5 or 6 in the morning. Computer is a luxury item. Young people save up so that they can treat themselves to the internet café. Balinese people are dirt poor. Kids run around with no shoes on. They don’t have much. They lead a very simple life and they’re happy. They work hard to make the ends meet.
Someone once told me that Bali reminds him of Taiwan – backtrack 30 years when rice paddies were all over the island, including the metropolitan city like Taipei. I don’t remember much of the good old Taipei. But I really enjoyed the simple way of life in Bali and I’d recommend everyone to go check it out.
Bali is a lovely place despite it’s a bit backward. But that’s the beauty of it. Maybe it’s not for those who suffer from anxiety attacks when they can’t find an outlet to plug in their laptop. Being away from the rest of the world and modern civilization can be a good thing. You begin to observe your surrounding very closely. You learn to enjoy the simple pleasures in life. You realize that it’s perfectly fine to break away from your normal routine.
The night falls early in Bali. Shops don’t have neon lights to shine through the night. And there are very few lights along the roads. It’s pitch dark after sunset. Due to the lack of noises, bright lights and foot traffic on the streets, you feel it’s late at night when it’s probably only eight. Nightlife is non-existent in Bali. I was in bed by 10 or 11 after reading my book or writing my journal. And I would wake up at six naturally. If not, the wild roosters would make sure to provide me the complimentary morning call.
Matahari Cottage Bed & Breakfast
The place I stay in Ubud, Bali – Matahari Cottage Bed & Breakfast is not the usual fancy hotels I’m familiar. Better yet, it has a personality, not to mention the daily room rate includes two meals. For a price-conscious traveler, this is a rare gem and a fabulous bargain!
My first meal at Matahari is a very late afternoon tea. I’m overwhelmed with how much food there is and how good everything is. Cookies, cakes and sandwiches come in a silver platter. Just when you have enough to eat, more is on the way. A fresh out of the oven scone with fruit jam and butter makes the afternoon tea complete. The staff tells me that they make everything in their kitchen. I have a sweet tooth and I just love the desserts. I stuff myself until I cannot eat anymore.
Breakfast serving is from 8 to 11. You pick a time and the location. I always have it on the terrace – just outside of my bungalow. I never like breakfast. In Bali, I always look forward to breakfast because everyday there is a surprise. Boy, I’m never disappointed with it. The three-course breakfast is enough to sustain me throughout the day until it’s time for the afternoon tea.
I have a terrible habit of reading daily newspaper and eating at the same time while the TV is on CNN. However, multi-tasking is just not possible in Bali. I was forced to concentrate on just one thing at a time whether it’s eating, sipping morning coffee, reading, browsing through the market or sightseeing. I was quite ‘simple-minded’ – a rare mental state of mind for me.
Monsoon Season
The best time of the year to go will be from July ‘till November, during the monsoon season. Amazingly, the weather is pleasant. Despite being next to the equator, Bali’s weather is nothing like Taipei – unbearably hot and humid; instead, it has a constant fresh breeze during the day and can get a little chilly at night. I couldn’t understand why there’s such a huge different in terms of weather between Bali and Taipei. I later learned that Taipei is in a basin and heat just sits in it. Pollutions make the matter even worse. The skyscrapers and apartment buildings absorb heat during the day and release it at night. There’s no wonder why Taipei is insanely hot in the summer. In Bali, there’s no high-rise but bungalows. Balinese people probably have no idea what air pollution is and what the harm it can bring to the island.
Secrets of Bargaining
If I must cite a negative thing about Bali, then it will be the merchants. Bali’s economy depends heavily on tourism. My first visit to the market was a series of rip-offs. Knowing Bali is a poor island, I assumed that things would be cheap. How cheap? I ain’t got a clue! I have a sense of cost of living when it comes to most modern countries. It usually makes sense and I can apply it when I go shopping. Bali is probably the poorest place I have ever visited. Upon arrival, it didn’t take long to lose every sense I had in values (in terms of money). The staff at Matahari Cottage (all Balinese) was very vague when I asked about pricing before heading to the market. I suspect it’s due to language barrier. Then the owner of Matahari Cottage told me this, “it is an island practice if you don’t want any trouble, when tourists ask you prices, just say you don't know. Merchants who give in to tourists bargaining below the fixed rate may face retaliation from neighboring shops.”
I think that explanation is probably true with any place whose livelihood depends on tourists. I doubt it if there’s such a thing as ‘fixed rate’ in Bali. The truth is: Anything goes. If the merchant dares to ask for a ridiculous amount of money and the tourist accepts it, then that’s more power to the merchant.
When I was looking to get my hair braided, a group of women who give massages and hair-braiding services on the beach approached me. Their opening price was 400,000 Rupiah, roughly $45. My offer was 100,000 Rupiah, which is equal to $11. After a few minutes of bargaining, they settled for 150,000 Rupiah, about $16 and four women would work on my hair. I had over 100 tiny braids. I was feeling quite Bo Derek. $5 is not a lot of money for most of us. For Balinese people, they have to work a few days in order to make that much in wages.
At Matahari Cottage, you can ask for in-room massages, which costs $8 an hour. Here is something I have yet figured out. Hair braiding and in-room massage are both labor intensive. Both last for about one hour. Then explain to me why does hair braiding cost twice as much as massage? As an outsider, I had trouble getting a sense of cost-of-living in Bali.
Apparently, hair braiding and massages are things that only tourists like. I asked the girls working at Matahari Cottage if they have ever gotten their hair braided. The answer was, “No. That’s just for tourists. It’s very expensive too!” For most Balinese people, they probably never tried hair braiding, let alone massage. Well, they do seem happy and relax. Only stressed-out people need massages!
One U.S. dollar seems much more than just a dollar. It will get you 9,000 Rupiah. Tourists can easily become ‘millionaires’. It takes about $111 to exchange for 1 million local currencies.
It’s rather sad that merchants try to scheme the tourists just to make a few extra dollars. To me, I cannot stand dealing with dishonesty. To Balinese merchants, it’s a survival skill.
During my stay in Bali, I hired a driver to take me around the island. He constantly asked me if I wanted to stop by silver shops, woodcarving workshops or any handicraft stores. I was more into the natural surroundings and the tranquility Bali has to offer. Shopping was the last thing on my mind. Later I learned that he would receive ‘kickbacks’ from anything I would have purchased from the shops he took me to. 10 % of whatever I paid to the shops goes to the driver. That bothers me.
Here’s a rule of thumb if you ever go to Bali and you want to pick up some souvenirs. Always cut more than 50 % of the asking price. If you’re bold, cut 80 % and there’s where you’ll start bargaining. Anything goes. You’ll be surprised how much room there is when it comes to making a sale. The merchants do not miss chances to haggle tourists. The best way to go about bargaining is that you should have a price in mind. If you think a piece of woodcarving is only worth $20, then that’s the price you’ll stick to. Well, let the man make a profit while you’re at it. He’s gotta eat too. I bought a woodcarving of a Hindu Goddess. The original price was only $60. I walked out the store with it after giving the woodcarving master $30. I was happy and so was he. Don’t worry. He made money off me though it was not as much as he would like it.
Afterthoughts
Bali was wonderful. It was a good idea to go alone. The weather was fantastic! The monsoon season keeps it dry during the day and cool at night. I was worried that it's going to insanely hot. It was very pleasant. Balinese people are nice and friendly. However, just like any places that depend on tourism (with the exception of San Francisco); you'll always meet merchants that will try all sorts of schemes just to get a few extra dollars out of the tourists. That is inevitable. People are so dirt poor there that you find yourself sympathize with them even when they rip you off big time. Moreover, they make you feel as if it's alright that you pay 10 times more than the locals do simply because you come from wealthy countries and are in far better financial state than they are.
Bali is a place you can go for some relaxation. It is for everyone – you can be a budget-conscious traveler and cut corners wherever you can; you also can go for everything five-start treatment, splurge and spoil yourself.
Bali has some truly breathtaking views. If you have never been to this exotic island before, it’s time to start planning a trip. This place allows you to free you body and mind. You just might get lucky; you might be able to re-discover your soul!
I’m glad that this time around, not only I traveled solo again but also went around this beautiful island. For five days, I left behind modern civilization and it felt great! As someone who stays connected all the time, I didn’t freak out as expected. I didn’t even bother to find an internet café just to see what is in my Inbox.
What Bali can best offer to tourists are things that money cannot buy. I would recommend Bali to anyone who is looking for a change of pace in life, just for a short period. When you return to civilization, you become more observant. You will understand that happiness is really consisted of simple matters in life, things that you have always neglected to notice before. What I’ve learned in Bali is that being happy is not all that difficult.
After Bali, my heart is set on traveling. Next time I want to go somewhere new and different! Any suggestions?
